Step 1:
Tools Needed for Installation: • Table Saw • Circular Saw • Hand Saw • Level • Square • Bevel Square • Caulk Gun • Hammer • Chisel • Eye Protection • Ear Protection • Polyurethane based construction adhesive (PL2000 or similar).

Step 2:
Preparing the Existing Treads for Covering: • Remove all the carpet and padding, making sure you remove all the nails, staples and tacking strip. • Use circular saw to trim the front nose of the tread. Cut the nose flush with the face of the riser below it. Wearing your safety glasses, make sure the blade is set to the depth of the tread that you are cutting off. • Due to the circular saw not being able to cut the entire overhang of the nosing off carefully cut the remaining nosing off at both ends with a hand saw and remove it. Cut carefully to avoid scratching the stringer. • Clean up the front edge of the tread with your chisel, as needed. It is important to have a square surface.

Step 3:
Checking the Stairs’ Safety Before Installing • Cut a small piece off the ends of both the riser and tread and set them in place. • Mark the intersection where the tread meets the stringer. • Measure the distance your pencil line is from the top of the stringer. • Mark the balance of the treads by measuring down from the top of the stringer to ensure that each is equal distance to the top of the stringer (This ensures the safety of the new stairs when they are in use and that the front edge of all treads have the same overhang).

Step 4:
Installing the First Riser – Start at the bottom where the riser meets the floor and work up • Check that the intersection of the riser and the existing stringer is square. • Right Side. Use the bevel square to ensure you get a tight fit. Slide the bevel square into the right corner and swivel the arm tight against the stringer then tighten the wing nut to keep the angle. • Transfer the angle with the bevel square to the new riser. • Cut the right end of the riser with the table saw. • Measure the distance the new riser is across. You will need the distance so that you can transfer it to the material. Before transferring the distance to the material, please note two points: One, the initial cut you made on the end of the riser is not square; therefore, there is a top and bottom to the new riser. Two, make sure you measure from the new cut to the uncut end of the riser to ensure a tight fit. • Left Side. Use the bevel square to ensure you get a tight fit. Slide the bevel square into the left corner and swivel the arm tight against the stringer then tighten the wing nut to keep the angle. • Transfer the angle with the bevel square to the new riser. • Cut the end of the riser with the table saw, angling the blade about 3 degrees so that the new riser will slide easily into place.

Step 5:
Trim the New Riser: • Check the existing tread to make sure it is level. If it’s not level, you’ll need to pad the new tread to become level; therefore, changing the height of the new riser • Measure the height in three (3) locations: Right, Center and Left (just in case there’s a slight dip in the existing riser). • Set the table saw’s rip fence to the measurement and cut the new riser’s height so that the new tread will sit level. Install the New Riser: • Use the caulk gun to apply construction adhesive over the entire back of the riser (Note: To keep the adhesive from seeping out of the edges, do not apply the adhesive too close to the edges). • Place the riser into position. • Use a scrap piece of wood to tap the new riser until it is snug against the existing rise. • Tap the riser down to make it snug against the floor.

Step 6:
Install the New Tread: • Check how square the intersection of the tread and stringer is. If the intersection is not square, use a scrap piece of cardboard to make a template. If a side is not square: • Place a small straight edge on template and transfer the line to the cardboard with the straight edge snug against the stringer. • Place the template on the new tread and line up the square side with the same side of the tread. • Transfer the line back to the tread by placing the straight edge in the same location but draw your line on the outside. • Cut the tread with the table saw. To ensure a tight fit, cut the tread a little long with the table saw and use a belt sander to bring the cut right up to the line. • Use the caulk gun to apply the construction adhesive over the entire back of the tread. • Place the tread into position. • Use a scrap piece of wood to tap the ends of the tread into place (this ensures no hammer marks and that that the ends of the treads do not chip). • Position the tread front-to-back to make sure the overhang is consistent, and make sure you hit the mark you made earlier on the stringer. • Pre-drill a hole on the back of the tread on either side. • Use a hammer to secure a nail in the tread to hold the tread into position while the glue dries.

Step 7:
Next Steps: Start from the bottom and work up until you complete your set of stairs!